Tag: Albania

  • Little voices

    Luljeta Lleshanaku remembers how growing up in a small town in Albania shaped her understanding of nature


    Never mind what the TV says! The weather is getting worse, my bones don’t lie!’ That was one of the expressions I’d hear hundreds of times in my childhood. And it was true: technology left room for error, but not one’s bones. Thanks to a coexistence that dates back thousands of years, humans have developed an understanding for nature.

                I grew up in a small mountain town of epic winters with heavy snow, blinding lightning and strong winds, nearly mystical, blasting from the north. In the bedroom, you could hear the snap and crackle of beech wood burning in the stove — the perfect atmosphere for reading Dickens, Tolstoy, John Galsworthy or for listening illegally to news from the free world, such as the BBC, or the Voice of America. When the first snow would begin to fall, I remember pressing myself against the window panes, indifferent to the adults’ anxious conversations. I remember the yellow raincoat of the woodsman and the mules’ silken gaze, bringing winter’s firewood into the yard. I remember the worn out clothes hanging on the line to dry: dresses, shirts, sweaters, trousers — frozen in the cold. And just like that, frozen, they acquired a shape, personality, soul, which you had to treat carefully so they wouldn’t break in your hands.

    After a long and tiring winter, summer was no longer just another season, but a well-deserved reward. During the summer, people clustered in yards, under the shades of the trees, chatting, planting flowers, picking fruit, painting their thresholds and garden walls with lime wash — a hushed symbol of peace and survival. People’s yards were for weddings; large cauldrons to distill raki. I remember the shared rituals of picking white mulberry fruit, followed by the perfume of pekmez preparations — small gestures which brought people closer together than any other social event. But I also remember the gurgling of water from the taps; there is no other sound more exciting than that of water in those dry summers.

    I remember the tomato garden in the backyard; I used to hide there for hours on end, at times to meditate by myself, and other times with my girlfriends. Where else would the taboo conversations of pubescent girls take place except amidst the sweet, intriguing aroma of half-ripe tomatoes?

    I remember the swallow’s nest under the roof; we protected it as something precious during the whole year, because the swallows could cross the borders and go where we couldn’t. It was like we were trying to taste a bit of freedom through them.

    One of the reasons why I befriended my cousin Hamit, sixty years older than me, was his unusual yard, large, surrounded by high walls, covered in grass, with the two sheep he kept hidden there, breaking the Communist rules against private property. I can still smell the burnt sheep milk from the stove, still hear the chirping crickets in the backyard where the family graves lay, and will never forget the first English lessons I received from him, there under the pergola, near the well. He had suffered in a political prison camp for twenty years, and into his subsequent loneliness he allowed only a child and the two sheep – the only creatures he trusted. Years later I met another political prisoner, Musa, a beekeeper. ‘Bees saved my life! It’s easier to find a common language with bees than it is with people!’ he used to say.

    And of course, bees don’t surveil you, bees don’t betray you. Nature never betrays you.

    My grandfather had bought endless land, had built farms, but although he lost them all in a day because of communist reforms, his connection to nature, to the land, stayed the same. When he lost his land, he grew grapes against the wall. He considered his deal with nature an ‘honest challenge, without tricks and wangles; an affair of honor,’ as I’ve written in one of my poems.

    Certainly, it’s in our nature to mystify the past. I admit it, it’s impossible to read about my childhood memories stripped of nostalgia. But, on the other hand, it’s a fact that including images such as stars, birches, roses, mourning doves, brooks, or sheep in poetry today is like writing perfumed love letters: out of fashion. All those nature elements that once worked as aesthetic references now create a borrowed sentimentality, artificiality, since nature and our connection to it is no longer the same.

    Due to global warming, snow is now rare in my old town, but even when it snows, people prefer to turn their backs on it and watch a film on their screens instead. And why not? Today, virtually and within a few seconds, you can visit ski resorts in the Austrian Alps, travel to Africa or the Grand Canyon in the U. S. Virtual nature, virtual life. Any one of us may write a whole novel about a world we’ve never known or stepped foot in, guided by a Google search. But I wonder how those little towns Joyce Carol Oates describes in her novels would appear to us if she hadn’t touched them, hadn’t sucked in their sadness. Doesn’t the vitality of her descriptions depend precisely on the manner in which people and nature become witnesses to one another’s existence?

    An intense relationship with the environment, nature, as either resistance or adoption to it, defines our motifs, our choices, and especially who we are. In this context, perhaps the most interesting definition of nature’s impact on man comes to us from Frank Wild, the hero of five expeditions to the South Pole (and the protagonist of the poem ‘Homo Antarcticus’ in my book, Negative Space) who says: ‘Once wedded to Nature there is no divorce – separate her you may and hide yourself amongst the flesh-pots of London, but the wild will keep calling and calling forever in your ears. You cannot escape the “little voices”.

    When you learn to understand nature in its complexity, to feel each of its vibrations, perhaps you gain a different perspective, a tenderness, a different approach to human beings themselves.

     


    Luljeta Lleshanaku is an Albanian poet. She was a fellow of the IWP in Iowa and then graduated with an MFA from Warren Wilson College. She has worked as a journalist, television author, university lecturer, and researcher. She is the author of eight poetry collections published in her language and twelve books published in other countries. She has received numerous awards. Her latest collection Negative Space, translated by Ani Gjika, was published by Bloodaxe in the UK and New Directions in the US.

  • Finding the sworn virgin

    This article is part of the English PEN Between EU and Me project, supported by the European Commission

    Translated by Clarissa Botsford

    I started thinking up Hana, the protagonist of Sworn Virgin, when I was still at high school in Tirana, under the Albanian communist regime. Perhaps because she was a reminder of those archaic traditions that the Party – in its infinite wisdom and foresight – claimed it had totally eradicated. Despite such claims, however, rumours abounded at the time about these bizarre creatures. It was said they were still eking out their existence in the valleys of the north, wedged into the peaks known as the Accursed Mountains, a name that seemed specially coined to attract the attention of a nosy adolescent. These women dressed as men and carried rifles, it was whispered. They shared the fiercest grappa with men, in the men’s dives, and chain smoked cigarettes like men. These women had the same rights as men, and were respected by other men as equals, or even as superiors. All this, rumour had it, happened in those Accursed Mountains, where life was still regulated by the Kanun, a set of ancient Albanian laws passed down through the generations, which somewhere stated that, ‘a woman is a sack, made to endure.

    All you had to do in order to take control of your own destiny, rather than be considered ‘a sack’, was to take a vow of chastity before the elders of the village. At that point you could do whatever you wanted: sell clan land, refuse an arranged marriage, shoot your enemies, give orders and have the last word.

    One day, by chance, I saw a photograph. It was a portrait of a sworn virgin: she was a man.

    The Party continued to skirt the existence of these unlikely figures. And yet, many years later I discovered that one sworn virgin – a man in every important respect – had served the world proletariat faithfully for years as secretary of a local committee of the Albanian Workers’ Party, to everyone’s satisfaction.

    I left Albania without saying goodbye – but that is another story. I took with me extravagant dreams, anguish, anger and nostalgia. Deeply buried in a dark corner of my memory, I also took Hana. How many sworn virgins were left? Forty? Sixty? Not very many, but they existed alright. And in my writer’s imagination there was Hana: young, beautiful, brilliant, with poetry in her soul and an insatiable appetite for the life which was just beginning to unfurl in front of her eyes, but, at the same time, a daughter of the accursed destiny of the Accursed Mountains in a beleaguered country. My Hana was going to be a rebel, not a sack-like product of the Kanun. She was going to sign up for university down in the capital city. She was going to be emancipated and studious, a writer even. Until the laws of the mountain and of family love dictated the direction of her life and made her become – like others before her – a sworn virgin by the name of Mark.

    That was when I tried to imagine what the people of the Accursed Mountains had never witnessed and would never deem possible: a sworn virgin who betrays her vows. A woman turned man who becomes a woman again. A little atom bomb dropped on the Kanun, on the harsh valleys where for centuries an undisputed patriarchal tradition had reigned. Because this is the power a novelist wields: to write the unspeakable.

    When I had finished writing the novel, Hana didn’t want to leave me alone. Creating her had not been enough. I went to look for her up in the Accursed Mountains, where I filmed a documentary on sworn virgins for Swiss television. I met several of them: they were men, smoking and drinking, carrying their rifles, totally relaxed, at ease in themselves, expressing no regrets or complaints about their life. In one town I met the former Party secretary, who was still respected as if the regime had never collapsed. And then I found a car mechanic in a tiny village who confided her impossible dream, her unspeakable anguish. I had finally found her.

    Elvira Dones will be in the UK for the following events:

    Monday 19th May, 7 for 7:30pm, The Library at Hardy’s Brasserie, 53 Dorset Street, London, W1U 7NH

    This is the first in a regular dinner party we will be hosting throughout the year, in which a small group of people get to join us for dinner with one of our authors, their translator.

    We will all be around one large table and people shall be rotated after each course to give everyone a chance to talk to Elvira, her translator Clarissa Botsford and at least one person from And Other Stories.

    Space is limited and booking is essential.

    £30 per head for a 3-course dinner and aperitif (excl. wine). A £10 deposit is required.

    To Book, contact: nicci@andotherstories.org

    Tuesday 20th May, 7 – 8:30pm, The Italian Bookshop (in The European Bookshop), 5 Warwick Street, London, W1B 5LU.

    An evening of readings and discussion between Elvira Dones and Clarissa Botsford in both English and Italian. Wine and snacks provided.

    FREE event

    Wednesday 21 May, 7:00pm, Working Men’s College Library, 44 Crowndale Road, London, NW1 1TR – (Nearest tubes Camden, Mornington Crescent)

    An evening of readings with five exciting international authors at this popular literary salon.

    Entry is FREE but reservations are essential.

    Cash bar available.

  • History and hysteria: The private libraries of dictators

    In this week’s PEN Atlas piece from Gazmend Kapllani, we hear about the books that were damned and banned during the communist regime in Albania, only to resurface in some unlikely places…

    There are houses without libraries. There are houses with poor or small libraries and others with big and wonderful ones. There are also houses with burned and destroyed libraries – like those of the Jews of Thessaloniki during the Nazi occupation of the city. The private libraries of 20th
    century can tell a lot about its political history and hysteria, about its big dreams and big crimes.

    The “Age of Extremes” (as Eric Hobsbawm called the 20th
    Century) “found” me in Albania.  I grew up in a house with a tiny library; most of which I used to hate.  My fearful parents, persecuted by the regime in the past, made a huge effort to create a sort of “window-library” which would show their obedience to the regime, hoping this way to prevent more possible ordeals. As one knows, the library is the first thing a visitor  notices on entering the house.

    The shelves of this “window-library” were full of books written mostly by “Party leaders” and “leading minds” of Marxism – Leninism. Enver Hoxha, all by himself, used to occupy three shelves of the library with his eighty books, which were multiplying every year, till he died in 1985. The other shelves were reserved for “Party leaders” of “minor levels” – none of them would dare to write more books than Enver Hoxha, of course. There were also some foreign books, considered as “useful” or “harmless” by the regime. Manifesto of the Communist Party by Karl Marx and next to it, his Magnum Opus, Das Kapital. One with a red cover and the other one with a black one. Some other books written by Stalin and Lenin, all of them in grey covers. One day, two books by Mao Tse Tung were added to the rest, but they disappeared relatively early, as soon as Enver Hoxha called Mao “a traitor to  real socialism”. The most interesting books of the library for me were those of foreign literature, like Gorky’s Mother and Cervantes’ Don Quixote (the only one that I really adored!).

    Close to my adolescence I made an impressive discovery concerning the existence of other books in my house. Apart from the “window-library”, my parents also used to keep “damned books”. They kept them secretly in their bedroom, enclosed carefully in two small black commodes. The “damned books” never crossed the door of their bedroom and were never found scattered by chance in different parts of the house, on the sofa or the table, like the other “normal” books. They were like terrible secrets and their existence was exclusively linked with darkness. Before allowing me to read some of them I had to swear to my parents that I would talk to no one. A promise that, unfortunately, I never kept.

    I should say that during that period of oppression and systematic paranoia in Albania we had a lot of free time to read books. But we couldn’t have the books we really wanted to read. Today, I can read whatever I like, but I have no time anymore. That’s why there are moments when I feel nostalgic about that terrible period, when reading of the “damned books” was akin to a ritual and my relationship with books was similar to the forbidden love…

    In 2009 I found myself again in Albania, doing some research on the lifestyle of the “Party leaders” during the communist regime. I was surprised to discover, among other things, that books and private libraries played an important role in Hoxha’s court. I was astonished by the fact that some of these guys, who systematically destroyed libraries and book collections, were also great readers and book collectors themselves. They even used to compete with each other, comparing the size of their private libraries. Enver Hoxha himself possessed an astonishing private library with almost 30,000 titles, mainly in French, as he had studied in France in the thirties. Some of these books were, literally, stolen from the private libraries of his enemies, who were killed or deported under his orders.

    The private library of Enver Hoxha doesn’t exist anymore. Many of the books of the old tyrant were stolen by those who came to power after his death and after the collapse of the communist regime. Some of the book thieves were former exponents of the old regime and from this perspective they were starting their post-communist career by stealing the books of their old master. The tyrant’s library was “dismantled” into thousands of pieces and totally disappeared.

    In the framework of my research I interviewed Ramiz Alia*, the successor of Enver Hoxha and one of his most obedient attendants. We met at his beautiful big flat, constructed by the Russians in the fifties, some hundred meters only from his previous villa. He used to live alone as his children had emigrated. We had a nice talk together. As we reached the end of our interview he insisted on showing me a particular beloved corner of the house: his private library.

    As I was looking, full of curiosity, at the books on the shelves, examining almost like a microbiologist their multilingual titles, he told me that many of the books he possessed once were stolen “in that period”: it meant the period when the regime collapsed and  Hoxha lost power. Ramiz Alia began telling me the titles of the books which were stolen. I remember him mentioning books by Nabokov, Baudelaire, Camus, Kafka… I interrupted him gently and asked: “Sorry, do you know that during your regime, if someone was caught with a book like the one you mentioned, they could go to jail for many years?”. He pretended not to hear my question and continued to talk with a nostalgic enthusiasm about his beloved writers and books. His approach only increased my insistence. I interrupted him again, not so gently this time: “Why were the books you are talking about on the list of the “damned books?”. He looked at me and smiled cynically. “Because the minds of the people were not ready for these books. It’s the same when a father wants to protect his child from evil” he answered. Twenty years since his fall from power he was still justifying his methods.

    We said goodbye and while I was going down the stairs of the Soviet style building I thought that tyrants never regret for their deeds. Were they to come to power again they would do exactly the same…

     *Ramiz Alia, died in 2011

    About the Author

    Gazmend Kapllani was born in 1967 in Lushnj, Albania. In January 1991 he crossed the border into Greece on foot to escape persecution by the communist secret services. In Greece he worked as a builder, a cook and a kiosk attendant, while also studying at Athens Universityand completing a doctorate on the image of Albanians in the Greek press and of Greeks in the Albanian press. He is now a successful writer, playwright, broadcaster and journalist.His best-selling first novel, A Short Border Handbook has been translated into four languages (English, Polish, Danish and French). A Short Border Handbook was published and by Portobello Books in 2009, and was translated by Anne-Marie Stanton-Ife.