Tag: Middle East

  • On Mahmoud Dowlatabadi, winner of the Jan Michalski Prize

    Sahar Delijani charts the career of  Mahmoud Dowlatabadi, winner of the 2013 Jan Michalski Prize, and how his work has forged the conscience of his nation. Sahar’s PEN Atlas piece precedes an exclusive Q&A with Mahmoud Dowlatabadi There is no Iranian who does not have a personal relationship with Mahmoud Dowlatabadi and his books. We all remember the time we read his ten-volume-saga Kelidar, his most well-known and loved novel, which tells the story of a nomadic Kurdish family during the politically troubled times of post World Word II in Iran.Undeniably one of the most important novels ever written in Farsi, this epic family saga tore through contemporary Persian prose, a majestic manifestation of literary mastery; and nothing either in us or in modern Persian literature was ever the same since.I was seventeen when I read Kelidar. Upon leaving our redbrick house in Tehran for a new life in Northern California, the first five volumes of the book were among my most precious possessions neatly packed in my blue suitcase. My mother brought the other five. I began reading at my grandparents’ home with its soft carpet and pink roses, facing the grandiosity of the Pacific Ocean. I remember the wind, the perfume of the freshly watered flowerbeds, and the tears running down my face because Dowlatabadi’s recounting of a history that I knew very little about just cut too close to the bone. And I was not the only one. The entire nation of Iran, three generations already, have seen themselves reflected in the characters Dowlatabadi has created. We have grown up with his novels, pondered with his characters, suffered with them, asked questions with them, made their stories our own.Mahmoud Dowlatabadi is Iran’s most prominent living novelist. He has written several novellas, short stories and more than ten novels, such as Missing Soluch, The Colonel, and Besmal, which have been translated into English. His works cover Iranian history from feudalism to modernity, from rural to urban life and the mass migrations from villages to cities, and set upon revealing the contradictions in a society where the more traditional modes of thoughts embedded in us since ancient times come head to head with a modern, cosmopolitan existence, leading to the disintegration of rural life and the beginning of what we know as modern Iran.As a child of a poor shoemaker in a remote village in the north-western part of Iran and as a young émigré to Tehran pursuing his love for theater while doing menial jobs for a living, Dowlatabadi is a writer who is intimate with the subjects of his novels, has lived with them, has been one of them. His background as a worker and a farmer has set the fundamental basis for his writing; personal experiences from which he draws consistently in his work. His sensual language, he claims, is a result of his work on the fields where he learned “to adorn what I had in my hands. The same way I learned how to grace language.”Barely having time between several jobs, the young Dowlatabadi used any moment he had to write. His love for writing began with letters he wrote to his family, above all his father and friends. A metaphor he once used in a letter to a friend, he says, triggered that first spark to set off what would soon become one of the most distinguished voices in contemporary literature.Dowlatabadi wrote for several years before he felt ready to embark upon the 3000-page-novel, Kelidar, which took nearly fifteen years to complete. While writing, Dowlatabadi was arrested by the Savak, the Shah’s secret police, and spent two years in jail, where he gained a reputation as “Mahmoud the golden hand” for the haircuts he gave to his 170 cell-mates. When he asked his interrogators what crime he had been arrested for, they confessed that there was no crime, “but everyone we arrest has copies of your novels.” Thus Dowlatabadi had already begun to give form to the consciousness of a nation.Using a language rich both with poetry and oral speech and expressions, Dowlatabadi has put into words the epic narratives of our country. Stories of villages, fields and mountains, revolts and injustice, upheavals and guns and love, of the forgotten and the forgetting, the wronged and the wrongdoer, of pride and pity, solidarity and solitude, and of a nation taking step after step through a tumultuous history, seeking a more just future. Dowlatabadi’s prose is descriptive, lyrical and unflinching. They are words to be savoured, stories to be remembered, and perhaps lessons to be learned from a writer who set out to safeguard not only our contemporary literature but also a piece of our historical memory.About the authorSahar Delijani was born in Iran and grew up in California. She was born in Evin Prison in Tehran, Iran in 1983, the same year both her parents were arrested due to their political activism against the Islamic regime. In 1996, when she was 12 years old, her parents decided to move to Northern California to join her mother’s family. Delijani was registered in a middle school, starting from 7th grade.In 2002, Delijani gained a place at the University of California, Berkeley, where she earned a BA degree in Comparative Literature. In 2006, after having met her husband at Berkeley, she moved to Turin, Italy, where she has lived ever since.Her debut novel, Children of the Jacaranda Tree, will be published in more than 70 countries and translated into 25 languages. It is published in the UK by Weidenfeld & Nicolson.Additional informationThe 2013 Jan Michalski Prize was awarded on 13 November to Mahmoud Dowlatabadi for his novel The Colonel  

  • Notes from a Safe House in Area A

    Selma Dabbagh returns to PEN Atlas, and to Ramallah, to stay at the Guest House of the Qattan Foundation. In this dispatch, she writes about the physical and bureaucratic walls that divide the territory, records the sounds of the Old City, and explores the impact of the Oslo Peace Accords on Palestinian literatureI felt a compulsion to either love or hate Ramallah intensely; to embrace it as my homeland or to reject it as an abject failure of a Palestinian political system replete with corruption and compromise. To feel ambivalent did not seem like an option for a place that is so hard to get into for people like me and so hard to get out of for its inhabitants. Diplomats, the United Nations and others can glide in and out; those who might possibly have an impact are not encouraged to experience its reality. The separation barrier or The Wall surrounding Ramallah is guarded by the multi-shedded wired-up Kalandia checkpoint. The entrance to Ramallah is a sight befitting the set of a modernist Wizard of Oz or a remake of Brazil. There is a large red sign before you reach the checkpoint: “This Road leads to Area A under the Palestinian Authority. The Entrance for Israeli Citizens is Forbidden, Dangerous to Your Lives and Against Israeli Law.” To sit in cafes in the city, with names like Pronto and Café de la Ville, consuming Caesar salads and espressos, inspires a sense of banality not compatible with the knowledge of a bigger picture of incarceration. It is, however, human nature to do ordinary things in extraordinary circumstances; to make the extraordinary ordinary, and to just get on with it.”There is no meta-message for Ramallah,” a political science lecturer friend says to me as we drive past the Ramallah Museum, which according to him leaves a lot to be desired. “We were discussing this in class and could not come up with a meta-message for this place. Not in art, or history-“”Could it be the non-violent resistant movements of the first Intifada?” I suggest helpfully.”What are you talking about?”His wife says, “Me. I am the meta-message of Ramallah.”The more I get to understand about this businesswoman, lecturer and mother of four, who from her garden can see the red lights of new settler outposts blinking on the hillside, the more I realize that she isn’t joking.The Qattan Foundation in Ramallah is a majestic early 20th
    century stone house with arched windows and a terrace, where John Berger, a former Qattan Guest House Resident, debated long into the night with the Foundation staff under hanging grapes parceled up in papery plastic bags. The offices are empty for much of the time I am there; I arrive before the Eid holiday at the end of Ramadan. Fig thieves drive up one day in a car. “Is everyone away?” they ask as I work at the outside table. “Yes everyone,” I reply to their beaming faces. They set about picking figs and bagging them up before a young man comes towards me offering a small plate of fruits with a gallantry lost many years ago in the West.The Guest House, behind the Qattan offices, is structured like a CIA safe house, a bare concrete structure with a heavy metal door. Behind it a mobile mast straddles the hill. To the right a 10-storey building is being constructed by two men in T-shirts who, with an air of vagueness, occasionally hang on ropes and tap at it with picks. It is rumoured to belong to Mohammed Dahlan, the controversial Palestinian Authority figure (henchman, spy, murderer of Arafat, himself a victim of conspiracy?). Behind this maybe-one day-it’ll-be-a hotel looming concrete cavity is the locked Christian cemetery where the murdered American archaeologist Albert Glock (central character of Edward Fox’s Brilliant Palestine Twilight: The Murder of Dr. Glock and the Archaeology of the Holy Land) is buried. A lone mongrelly dog pads up to my door, keen on taking a place on the rug. I try to feed it lasagna from a doggy bag, sure that its doting behavior is driven by its stomach, but it couldn’t care less. The day before I leave, a dignified film-maker, with the dapper air of the Rive Gauche, saunters up the path with a see-through plastic bag of freshly chopped meat, and I understand the dog’s contempt for my offerings. A lizard pokes its head through the hole for the television aerials in to my room most evenings.image001doggyOne writer or artist can occupy the Guest House at a time, for a period of up to three months. Before me was a Brazilian filmmaker who was loved by the unnamed, well-fed dog. The messages in the guestbook rage and lament, and document inspiration from Ramallah. I mull over what my entry will be, am determined not to write a word until just before the end of my two-week stay, waiting for the meta-message to strike me like a holy prophecy. This turns out to be the wrong approach, as my goal of writing three scenes a day, seeing as much as I can (including stand-up comedy by a Palestinian American comedienne with cerebral palsy, Maysoon Ziadeh, who sits down), together with the chaos and agony of my friends’ lives, ends up taking over my life, and my scrawl of “Taxi’s here, must go–” ends up being the testimony I leave the Guest House with, next to the calligraphy and care of Berger et al.Mahmoud Abu Hashhash, responsible for the Literature Programme at the Qattan Foundation, is one of the few people with something good to say about the peace deals of the 1990s and the impact they have had on Palestinian society. He agrees with me that the upside of Oslo is that there seems to be a new era of iconoclastic writing. Writers feel freer to write about the faults in their society and their personal experiences, rather than being boxed in by the Palestinian national narrative. “Everything changed after Oslo,” Abu Hashhash says. “It both questioned the way that people dealt with themes and political issues as well as making writers more stylistically experimental.” This year 26 novels were submitted for the annual Qattan award, more than double the previous year.I am here to write a play commissioned by BBC Radio 4 and to record,with a Marantz recorder, which I have been trained to use by my producer in London as though I am assembling a bomb, background noises or ‘Atmos.’ I have a list of atmospheric sounds that I need to collect to fit the scenes of my play.My play follows the journey of a woman, Rasha, who comes from an old Christian Jerusalemite family, travelling back to the Old City on her one-day permit. During that journey she discovers realities about the father she adored which she would rather not know. My list of required ‘Atmos’ includes the following: (1) EXT. Quiet Jerusalem street. Close to front door. 5’00” time: 1800 (2) EXT. Communal taxi, 1 rear door closing, stationary (3) INT. Humble family home living room. 5’00” very early morning.I learn to interpret the world through sound. I jump at a horse-drawn cart jangling down the street and put on my headphones, fiddling with sound levels; I appreciate more the lyricism here of the adaan call to prayer (none of the screaming vitriol of some of the mosques I have heard in Pakistan, Egypt and the Gulf) as well as the loudest wedding music ever. At 6 am one morning, I take my character’s journey from the village of Eizariya to Jerusalem. I had lived there when I was 22, travelling into Jerusalem each day (it took 15 minutes then, it takes over an hour now) to write pithy paragraphs on shootings for the human rights organisation where I once worked. The village of Eizariya is now a town; I can’t see the bare rooms where I lived; a town divided by the Wall which is scrawled with graffiti and blotted with the marks left when someone tried to burn an absolutely non-flammable object. The Wall is a horror that disorientates as much as it divides. In East Jerusalem the shabab youth shoot toy bullets and throw silly stones at the car my UN friend drives me around in, as they think we are from the other side. An Israeli flag the size of a billboard flutters over a house bought from a Palestinian, found shot dead days later in Jericho. There are houses taken over by settlers everywhere in East Jerusalem. Fake shrines and false archaeology. It’s an efficient, aggressive and disciplined takeover; a systematic making-ugly of all that is Palestinian.I carry my Marantz recorder hesitantly as there are soldiers, and then I start asking shopkeepers if I can record here, there, on the street, in the church, by the underwear shop, in the garden, and by the end I am marching through the Old City from the Jewish quarter to Damascus Gate with the orange-headed mike swaddled like a baby in my arms, picking up the sounds of rice falling against brass dishes, Chinese toy dogs barking, soldiers’ radios, touts shouting about the Stations of Christ and souvenirs, the woeful singing of Filipino pilgrims, and the scratch and start of amplifiers calling the faithful to prayer against the bells of others.Once, I am dropped at Kalandia after going for dinner in Jerusalem. It’s late. 11 pm and for some reason they have closed the checkpoint. The Israeli soldiers have the jitters (“They are always nervous,” my aunt says later). The temperature drops at night. We should all stand here, no there. Stand, wait. They call someone out of the queue randomly. You, you, man come here, I need to check your papers. I am nervous for the man pulled out and I have no vested interest. I am glad it is not me, but I am nothing but privilege in this gathering as I have a maroon document in my bag. You, you, go back. In the cars, women dressed and made-up for parties sit impatiently, children squirm in their seats, horns start beeping. There is no reason for the closure, but everyone talks as though talking enough, asking enough, showing resilience, disdain, contempt will reduce it, make us rise above it. The wall slides open and Israeli soldiers, machismo bristling out of their necks, rev their engine as their jeep drives comfortably through the man-made gateway to the other side.About the author

    Selma Dabbagh is a British Palestinian writer based in London. She is the author of the novel, Out of It, (Bloomsbury, 2011). Her short stories are mainly set in the contemporary Middle East. Recurring themes in her work are idealism (however futile), political engagement (or lack thereof) and the impact of social conformity on individuals.

    In 2004 and 2005 she was selected as a Finalist for the Fish International Short Story Prize and was English PEN’s nominee for International PEN’s David TK Wong Prize in 2005. Fish also nominated her for the Pushcart Prize in 2007.

    Her work has appeared in International PEN’s Context: The Middle East magazine, Qissat: Short Stories by Palestinian Women and NW15: An Anthology of New Writing. Her work has been praised by reviewers in The Independent, The Guardian, The Times Literary Supplement, Al Ahram Weekly, the Times and The Sunday Times.

    Some of her short stories, reviews of her work and interviews about her are available on her website.

    Selma is currently working on a second novel and a fiction feature film with the director Azza el Hassan.

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  • On #OccupyGezi, the Turkish Government prefers conspiracy theories to engagement

    Oray Egin reports on Turkey’s ‘dissident witch hunt’.

    On Monday 5th August 2013, Turkish courts finally reached a decision on the most controversial trial to date. The Ergenekon investigation, which was launched in 2007, initially aimed to disclose an alleged clandestine organization that plots to overthrow the government. But over time, the investigation widened to include many opponents of Turkey’s pro-Islamist Justice and Development Party government including prominent university professors, party leaders, well-known journalists, ex-military personnel and a former chief of staff. They were all sentenced to life in prison.

    Most of the Ergenekon suspects were already behind bars. But the court also issued an arrest for Merdan Yanardag, the editor-in-chief of a small independent daily Yurt that strongly criticizes the Ergenkon investigation, linking him to the case. The same day, Turkish police also launched a drug investigation that ended up with the arrests of some of Turkey’s most famous actors.

    Coincidence? Some seem to think not. “It’s become a dissident witch hunt,” says Aysenur Arslan, a veteran journalist and a writer for Yurt, on the phone. “I fear this won’t stop. It may lead to ongoing trials concerning journalists. Even the drug raid raises questions in my head. Most of these actors were supporters of the Gezi Protests.”

    As is now well known, the Gezi Park protests started out of environmental consciousness, to save the park from becoming a shopping mall, but quickly evolved into  massive anti-government protests. The police attacked the protesters with tear gas and water cannons, left five people dead, 11 blinded and many wounded.

    Since the protests erupted Turkey’s ruling Justice and Development Party administration has been mostly focusing on conspiracy theories about the perpetrators of the ‘Occupy Gezi’ movement. At first, Erdogan blamed the ‘global interest rate lobby’ committed to raising Turkey’s borrowing costs for profit. At one point, Turkey’s deputy prime minister said that the Jewish Diaspora were creating unrest in the country. Melih Gökçek, the mayor of Ankara from Erdoğan’s party, went on TV and declared Otpor!, a former youth movement from Serbia, to be behind the uprisings. Gökçek also mentioned Gene Sharp, an expert on non-violent action, as providing the theoretical framework for overthrowing Turkey’s government.

     “I had never heard of Gene Sharp or Otpor! before,” wrote Memet Ali Alabora, a star actor who was at the forefront of the Gezi Park protests, in a statement. On June 10, he had tweeted “It’s not only about Gezi Park, didn’t you still get it, come join us.” This single tweet, and his YouTube video shot in the same park from 2011 explaining Occupy Wall Street to Turkish followers, was enough to put him on the spotlight. Most recently, a Turkish prosecutor demands that Alabora be tried and charged with 20 years for allegedly provoking the protests.

    “I am an actor who is anti-war, an environmentalist, and a believer of freedom of speech and democracy,” he followed in the same statement. “My tweet only reflected my feelings that night and had no political motives.”

    Even Oscar winners like Susan Sarandon and Sean Penn were recently targeted by Turkey’s hotheaded Premier Recep Tayyip Erdogan because of their support for Gezi in an ad in the The Times. They co-signed a declaration among a group of intellectuals from PEN’s Vice President Moris Farhi, to Andrew Mango, David Lynch, Tom Stoppard and many more condemning Turkish authorities’ crackdown on Gezi Park protests.

    Erdogan is now planning to sue the Murdoch-owned daily. “The press wants to throw mud to see if it sticks. The Times is renting out its own pages for money,” he recently said. “This is The Times‘ failing. We will pursue legal channels regarding the Times.”

    What the Turkish government fails to understand is that the Gezi Park protests broke out organically, and, indeed, had no political motive from the beginning. As Turkey’s Nobel laureate author Orhan Pamuk puts it, in a recent interview, “it was not organized [and] political parties were not capable of managing it.”

    To his credit, Turkey went under a rapid democratization process under Erdogan’s decade long reign. He upended the influence of the military over politics, implemented a set of reforms for the country’s Kurdish minority, improved healthcare and boosted the economy. Yet, at the same time he has become increasingly authoritarian and created a country of fear. Not a day goes by without a pro-government media outlet publishing lists of journalists and accusing them of trying to overthrow the government. Turkey is already the world’s biggest jailer of journalists, according to the latest CPJ report. Recently, the Turkish Journalists’ Union announced that at least 72 journalists were fired or forced to leave in the six weeks since the Gezi protests started.

    “I fear the government has totally lost control and is driving the country to a dead end,” Arslan adds. “I only wish that we don’t hit a wall in the end.”

    About the Author

    Oray Egin is a journalist and a writer based in Istanbul and New York. You can follow him on Twitter @orayinenglish

  • Our man in Berkhamsted

    Kaya Genç introduces PEN Atlas readers to Şavkar Altınel: travel writer, inspiration for a famous literary character, translator of famous British poets and resident of Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire. But above all Altınel is a poet in his own right, comparable with Larkin for his ‘dry lyricism’ and nostalgia

    Şavkar Altınel, arguably the most talented contemporary poet in the Turkish language, lives in Berkhamsted, a small town near London, the birthplace of Graham Greene and William Cowper. He earns a living as a translator and interpreter. Turkish speakers who use his services are lucky to have him translate their words: after all he has rendered poems by the greats – ranging from Geoffrey Chaucer to Philip Larkin – into Turkish. 

    Born in Istanbul in 1953, Altınel made Britain his home more than three decades ago. He sends his Turkish manuscripts to his editors in Istanbul where they are sought after by a small but devoted circle of readers. To date Altınel has published four poetry collections, a book of literary criticism, and four not easily classified books in prose which appear in the “Travel” section of his publisher’s catalogue, but are, in each case, so carefully organised around a set of themes that they are more like novels in disguise. His translations from English, meanwhile, include From an Island in the North: Fifty Poems by Fifty English Poets from the Middle Ages to the Twentieth Century, which he selected and turned into Turkish single-handedly, and a verse translation, complete with internal rhymes, of The Ancient Mariner. In 2011 he was awarded the prestigious Erdal Öz literary prize for “his devotion to literary values and his bridging of different literatures”. Like the mysterious and often unnamed speaker in his poems, Altınel indeed bridges different cultures but that experience may be said to turn him into a ghostlike figure, drifting between British, Turkish and European cities (with the odd excursion to China or the Australian Outback thrown in to collect material for his travel books). It is difficult to define Altınel, whose surname means ‘the golden hand’ in Turkish, so constantly does he wander as a cloud.

    SavkarIn person Altınel is a reticent figure. When I met him after his award ceremony in Istanbul, we talked about Joseph Conrad, one of our shared obsessions, before he pointed to the crowd composed of Turkey’s biggest city’s literati and culture journalists. “I have to say I don’t know any of these people,” he said. The ignorance was mutual: a significant number of the Turkish journalists and critics I met that evening were embarrassed to admit they had never read Altınel’s poems. Although Altınel had written all his works in Turkish, it seemed as if he was somehow lost in translation, even though his output doesn’t need translation to be enjoyed by his Turkish readers. I remember leaving the building that evening with a sense of fascination by the idea of a writer who had managed to become a foreigner both in England and Turkey.

    I wondered how Altınel achieved this status of the solitary foreigner, not exactly desirable for authors, who want to inhabit a place where they can produce works safe in the knowledge that they are at home. His poems, which I have been reading for more than a decade now, partly explain his position. They describe the strange sense of pleasure their speaker’s experience alongside darker feelings of loss and alienation. 

    When I first read his poetry, returning to Istanbul after a year away in Amsterdam, I was particularly impressed by Altınel’s sense of nature and weather. The centrepiece of his poetical constructions is the lansdscape in all its solitary beauty. People and their feelings are left in the background, portrayed as insignificant when compared to the sublime feelings evoked by the visible world.  The first stanza of ‘Before Going to Bed’, a poem which is part of his collection Cities Traversed at Night published in 1992, is about the nocturnal observations of a man who is just about to go to bed:

     

    Looking out of the window,

    I see the valley enveloped in darkness,

    the silhouettes of houses and trees

    are almost impossible to make out,

    even the glow of London

    which always tints the clouds on the horizon

    has lost its strength:

    Everything’s strange, distant, alien now.

     

    Altınel’s best poems create such intimate and solitary moments which evoke memories of lost friends, places and ideals. His characters move from place to place, occupied by little besides reminiscences of their youthful dreams. Altınel describes the movements of these world-weary figures in kitchens, train stations, attics and restaurants with a somewhat dry lyricism. When his characters have lovers or friends, they are often asleep or absent from the scene. His 1999 poem “The Transparent Double”, part of his collection Dull Lights, turns the reader into a spectator of its solitary speaker, asking him to become the speaker’s double:

     

    Waking up shivering in the deck-chair

    where I fell asleep while reading,

    I wonder where summer’s gone

    and at what point the years began

    to hand me over from one winter to another,

    reducing light and heat to a distant memory.

     

    I reach for my book fallen from my hands,

    but it’s already too dark

    to make out the words.

    Eventually I give up and go inside;

    my fingers find the electric switch

    and there appears outside the window

    the room’s double, transparent and unreachable.  

     

    Like the unreachable double of his living room, Altınel’s speakers wander on earth, their minds constantly occupied with the idea of an alternative life, which is the life that they had desired to live when young. Their experiences lead them to a profound sense of disillusionment that makes them incapable of living their lives. 

    Two years ago I sent an e-mail to Altınel where I posed a number of questions about his work. He replied in a matter of days. I learned that he had never tried translating his poems or publishing them in Britain. “The British literary world is more or less a closed shop,” he wrote. “It is not easy for a foreign writer to find an outlet for his work here.” I was surprised to learn that Altınel values his prose works more than his poetry. “If the Devil turned up one day and asked me to sell him my soul in return for a book deal with an English publisher, I would give him my travel books, instead of my poems. I have translated one of those books, but unless the Devil really pays a visit, I have no intention of doing anything with the manuscript.”

    Altınel had wanted to be “a prose writer and write novels in English, but somehow ended up becoming a poet writing in Turkish.” He believes that had he written his poems in English he would have written exactly the same things. “Philip Larkin, the greatest English poet since Wordsworth, wanted to be a novelist instead of a poet. He said that if he could write novels they would say exactly the same things as his poems, but would be richer and more detailed. I feel the same about writing in English: I would have been the same writer but maybe with a bigger audience.”

    In 2002, Altınel’s friend the novelist Orhan Pamuk used him as an inspiration for Ka, the protagonist of his novel Snow. Pamuk said in a throwaway line during an interview that it was his dear friend Altınel who had inspired Ka: the depressed poet who travels to Kars where he finds himself in the midst of a coup d’état. Ka composes poems throughout the novel but although their titles are revealed to us, we don’t get to read them. His presence in the novel also exemplifies Pamuk’s fascination with wordplay. In Turkish kar means snow; Snow takes place in Kars, with its protagonist named Ka; and, of course, Altınel’s first name is Şavkar.

    “I used to see a great deal of Orhan at the time he was writing Snow. He asked me to describe the experience of writing a poem. I told him it was almost a mystical experience, where the world gets illuminated and matter turns into meaning. There are traces of our conversations in Snow. And of course there is a connection between the snow crystal in the novel, and my poem, ‘Crystal’. This was a kind of in-joke he put into the book.”

    Altınel’s poems might not have yet found the audience they deserve but there is little doubt that their speaker has become famous thanks to this rather surreal postmodern page in Turkish literary history. It is about time his fellow Berkhamstedians were given the chance to read him in English.

     

    About the Author

    Kaya Genç is a Turkish novelist and essayist. He specialises in late-Victorian authors and wrote a doctoral dissertation on Conrad, Wilde and Stevenson. Newsweek Turkey named him as one of Turkish literature’s 20 under 40. His essays appeared, both in print and online, in the Guardian, London Review of Books, Songlines, Sight & Sound, Index on Censorship, the Rumpus, Los Angeles Review of Books, the Millions and many others. He translated ten books into Turkish (Tom McCarthy’s C, among others), writes both in his native tongue and in English and lives in Istanbul.

  • A wind blows from Gezi Park

    This week PEN Atlas returns to Turkey for an update on Gezi Park. Müge İplikçi reflects on recent events and draws parallels between the treatment of protestors and the ongoing stifling of Turkish writers, who work in a system in which profit is the only validationTranslated from the Turkish by Feyza HowellThe Gezi Park movement goes far beyond ‘external provocation’, as it’s persistently termed by the Turkish government. It affects everyone, young and old, and it will continue to do so.A few weeks ago, a younger demonstrator told me that this was not an environmental movement – or at least not yet. But I suspect we both actually want the same things: to live in a country where nature and humans coexist, where an individual’s rights and freedoms are sacrosanct, enshrined in an ethical framework, and where reason prevails, without interference from any hierarchy.After all, the Gezi Park movement is much more than an excuse for environmental activists to flock to the streets. The real impetus has been a general struggle against a stifling atmosphere –  the increasing interference with our homes, our bodies and our independence. This has included a conservative shift in our education system; the censorship of books; a ‘single voice’ imposed on the Press; and a profits-first policy imposed on the Arts under the guise of ‘privatisation’. In all likelihood, the last straw came with the rapid transformation of the country into a property bubble.But something unexpected happened as the panzer tanks raided Gezi Park on the night of June the 15th
    . We, the older generation, were well acquainted with state violence in a way that the 90s generation have never been, or needed to be. (I call such violence the official language of the state: a language that feeds on censorship and lies.) This was perhaps the first time the younger generation really understood what minorities had to face. One young person regretted his earlier suspicion of gay people, while another exclaimed, ‘Now I understand why the Kurds fled to the mountains!’Fascinating moments and encounters like these have a new address now. A place that inspires innovative protests and – more crucially – teaches us to overcome our fears. Take the ‘standing man’. One day, a solitary young man stood still for hours in Taksim Square, next to Gezi Park. Others joined him. The following day, there were more. In a few days, people were standing still everywhere. They stood still reading books, in silent protest at police violence. They stood to exercise their rights as citizens.Although the state expelled the protestors from the park on June the 15th
    – physically, if not in spirit – the action paradoxically gave rise to hundreds of Gezi Parks. The movement endures, through a variety of initiatives, and as it does it brings about change: both social and political.I won’t deny however that this has all been a terrible ordeal. There’s little need to elaborate on the fug of tear-gas or the police truncheons that we’ve had to face. But for writers, the worst has been on the agenda for years: the relationship between neo-liberal policies and moderate Islam, a relationship with an infinite appetite for expansion.Our work has no real value in such an environment, where profit is the only validation. This has led to yet another type of censorship, one perpetrated by the publishers and the media. All that matters is how your work stands in the marketplace. You are trapped by an undetectable boundary of your visibility, sales and promotion. This is reinforced by a superficial publishing industry and its followers, who place focus on how visible you are. This vicious circle explains why good literature struggles to reach the reader. Over the last decade, good literature has become marginalised before our very eyes, in a process that is now accepted as the norm.For some time, the possibility of breaking free from the vicious circle has been occupying my mind. That is, until very recently. Because now there is a new phenomenon at the heart of the nation: Gezi Park, a resistance that is continuing as I write these words.This movement has the potential for great change, and one whose impact will be felt on the wider literary scene. I don’t necessarily mean writers will gain a wider readership. Rather that there is a chance that readers might think more, and think more deeply – and this in turn might lead to an end to writers’ alienation from their work.I am convinced that this period of deeper thinking will inspire us all, and literature will have its part to play. A nation that can defy its government’s ‘blank cheque’ attitude towards politics might also defy such an attitude coming from other parts of the political and cultural establishment.That is, so long as we writers continue to create, without compromise between integrity and the marketplace. The acclaimed writer Oğuz Atay once said, ‘I am here, Dear Reader! Where are you?’ I am convinced that the reader is there – learning solidarity, learning how to resist the system, developing an awareness of culture. The reader will eventually respond and welcome us.And this might easily mean that everything changes. A paradigm shift in reading would entail a shift in our very perception of life…Could that really be?Recent events have demonstrated that anything is possible.About the AuthorMüge İplikçi was born in Istanbul. A graduate of Istanbul University English Language and Literature Department, İplikci received MA degrees in Women’s Studies from Istanbul University’s Women’s Studies Department and The Ohio State University. İplikci made her mark at a young age, winning the prestigious Yaşar Nabi Nayır Young Author Award in 1996. She has since published four short story collections and three novels, as well as two books of non-fiction. A widely translated short story author, İplikci’s highly creative stories, which are often tinged with, if not doused in, the post-modern, usually revolve around apparently mundane human relationships, and especially the women in them. İplikci has been a member of Writers in Prison Committee (WIPC) of Turkish PEN for 3 years, and has also been the chairperson of the PEN Turkish Women Writers Committee since 2007.About the TranslatorFeyza Howell works as a literary translator as well as serving English PEN as an assessor and a number of public agencies as an interpreter. She has been translating fiction and commercial texts for many years as well as writing copy and non-fiction, including Waste by Hakan Günday and her translation of Madame Atatürk by İpek Çalışlar, which is due for publication by Saqi in the autumn.

  • On the sublimation of authority

    PEN Atlas continues its focus on Turkey this week, in light of ongoing unrest throughout the country. In this  dispatch, Hakan Günday unpacks the notion of authority and censorship, and considers its effects on civilians 

    Translated from the Turkish by Feyza Howell

    All authority has a natural tendency to ultimately vaporise, utilising every tool at its disposal. The fundamental purpose of this tendency is to disperse authority molecules throughout the atmosphere for the governed to inhale in order that submission may be transformed into accepted behaviour. Thus, as authority spreads itself like waves of fog, the governed lose the ability to identify who actually makes their decisions: they themselves, or the authorities? And, in time, they grow to accept their new situation as the norm, turning into the unwitting enforcers of self-censorship. It is at this point that the bodies and minds of those governed display the traces of the aforementioned inhalation, no matter how deftly authority may have evaded criticism -direct or indirect- by simply concealing itself. Art works as a disclosing tool, in certain circumstances, to reveal these fingerprint-like traces.

    Remaining visible is a potential threat for authority, marking it as a target for reaction, and thus hindering its reign. Fully aware of this danger, authority seeks invisibility; the more it does so, the more effective a fingerprint powder art becomes, disclosing to the open eye the stains of oppression on which it’s sprinkled. That’s when the governed notice the traces of authority on their own bodies and minds and try to free themselves of this ‘foreign matter’ they’d been carrying unawares.

    These traces, in addition, indicate a spiritual loss rather than a material one, in contrast to those left behind by a random burglar: not the theft of a laptop, but rather of liberty.

    Authority is the explanation behind the transformation of the compassionate going to sleep and waking up as brutes. Tolerance may have closed its eyes questioning, entered dreamland querying the prosecution, and opens its eyes as bigotry… All manners of authority stain humans from the moment they they’re born, and life is the struggle to purify oneself from these stains.

    It’s only when authority uses a gas bomb -for instance- to permeate the governed that the natural chemistry of the human body and mind rejects this at once. The aforementioned gas, being unable to disperse in open air, congregates at one point, revealing authority that is made concrete anew as hanging in the void, swinging naked. No different from the moment when a burglar is caught red-handed, and therefore no fingerprint powder is required for identification. Authority stands like a leaden cloud, its intransigence and sickness in full view. 

    Now all that the governed needs to do to see it is raise their heads, but staring at it is a problem. A medical problem. Because the true face of authority is too dangerous to look upon with the naked eye, too perilous to touch with the bare hand. Which is why the following personal safety equipment is essential before attempting the above-mentioned actions: a helmet, swimming goggles, protective facemask, a pair of work gloves and sufficient quantities of antacid solution.

    As İstiklal Road would shed its leaves onto Taksim Square, so did the resistance flock to it, a five-minute walk from the verdant Gezi Park. Accessories were essential from the first night onwards, the 31st of May. Accessories that serve to protect, contrary to popular misconception, not from the effects of tear gas, but from the germs of authority. The resistance was fully aware that such an infection would manifest itself with equal violence in response to police brutality; this first symptom would poison their peaceful movement. The superhuman determination to stay sterile and thus fend off authority’s attempts to sideline the resistance is extraordinary.

    Consequently, the Gezi Park Resistance -whose ecological demands went up in the smoke of their torched tents on what was only the second day of their action- and has today become a ‘Protest to Earn the Right to Protest’ is a poem, not a story, in the history of protest on the freedom of expression. A poem written by the object of its own tribute: the activists still resisting, sustaining injuries and losing their lives…

    About the Author

    Hakan Günday was born in Rhodes in 1976. He finished his primary education in Brussels. After attending Ankara Tevfik Fikret High School, he studied at the Department of French Translation in the Faculty of Literature of Hacettepe University. He then transferred to Universite Libre de Bruxelles.

    About the Translator

    Feyza Howell works as a literary translator as well as serving English PEN as assessor and a number of public agencies as interpreter. She has been translating fiction and commercial texts for many years as well as writing copy and non-fiction, including Waste by Hakan Günday and her translation of Madame Atatürk by İpek Çalışlar is due for publication by Saqi in the autumn.

  • The Walnut Tree of Gezi Park

    Following recent events, PEN Atlas is running an additional dispatch this week from Turkey. Kaya Genç writes for us about Nâzım Hikmet Ran, whose poem ‘The Walnut Tree’ has taken on a prophetic turn and an inspirational one in light of Gezi Park

    Nâzım Hikmet Ran, who died fifty years ago this week on June 3 1963, was one of the most sophisticated poets of Turkish language. His reputation as a romantic communist seems uncomplicated on the face of it. His works, however, attest to an author whose ideas were far from simple: a communist who was fascinated by the minutiae of industrialization; a poet who preached art for the masses while devoting his verses to elaborate philosophical discussions with figures as demanding as George Berkeley and Karl Marx.  

    Born in the then Ottoman-ruled Thessaloniki in 1902, Hikmet studied at a Naval Academy before traveling to Anatolia to join the anti-imperialist resistance movement. From there he moved to Moscow where he witnessed the foundation of the Soviet Union. Inspired by Futurists and Vladimir Mayakovsky’s modernist experiments he returned to Turkey where a nasty surprise awaited him in the form of an increasingly authoritarian regime. The new ruling elite, which trampled all dissent after 1925, picked on Hikmet; as a result he spent more than twelve years in Turkish prisons. After he finally decided to flee to Moscow in 1950, a newspaper printed his picture on its cover, urging its readers to spit on it. He was denationalized a few days later.

    The sheer range of Hikmet’s interests was fascinating. Although he spent almost a fourth of his life under confinement he had a ravenous appetite for current affairs, artistic movements and women from all nationalities. With their multiple perspectives his epic city poems bring to mind Dziga Vertov’s filmic experiments. In “The Epic of Kuvayi Milliye” he narrated the war of independence from the perspectives of ordinary people of Anatolia, challenging the official historiography of the state. As an extremely well-read poet he challenged a number other things, too. Hikmet was too clever, too bright, too passionate. Whatever happened on earth interested him; like a journalist he was quick to react to events. When the Atomic Bomb was dropped on Hiroshima he described this atrocity from the posthumous point of view of a seven year old child (“I’m only seven though I died / In Hiroshima long ago / I’m seven now as I was then / When children die they do not grow”) and from that of a fisherman (“A young Japanese fisherman was killed / by a cloud at sea. / I heard this song from his friends, / one lurid yellow evening on the Pacific.”) 

    Hikmet’s love poems make good reading; as a young man I effectively made use of them while courting girls. Indeed, I have never met a Turkish girl who didn’t react to Hikmet’s love poems in a positive way. Being a reader of Hikmet provided me with the double advantage of appearing politically and sexually mature.

    Last week I remembered Hikmet, like thousands of others who opposed the cutting of trees in Istanbul’s Gezi Park. One of his most popular poems, “The Walnut Tree”, had a contemporary resonance here: “I am a walnut tree in Gulhane Park / My leaves are nimble, nimble like fish in water / My leaves are sheer, sheer like a silk handkerchief / pick, wipe, my rose, the tear from your eyes / My leaves are my hands, I have one hundred thousand / I touch you with one hundred thousand hands, I touch Istanbul / My leaves are my eyes, I look in amazement / I watch you with one hundred thousand eyes, I watch Istanbul / Like one hundred thousand hearts, beat, beat my leaves / I am a walnut tree in Gulhane Park / neither you are aware of this, nor the police.” Hundreds of people chanting those verses to defend the cutting of trees in an Istanbul park—perhaps this was a fitting way to pay tribute to his memory.

     

    About the Author

    Kaya Genç is a Turkish novelist and essayist. He specializes in late-Victorian authors and wrote a doctoral dissertation on Conrad, Wilde and Stevenson. Newsweek Turkey named him as one of Turkish literature’s 20 under 40. His essays appeared, both in print and online, in the Guardian, London Review of Books, Songlines, Sight & Sound, Index on Censorship, the Rumpus, Los Angeles Review of Books, the Millions and many others. He translated ten books into Turkish (Tom McCarthy’s C, among others), writes both in his native tongue and in English and lives in Istanbul.

    Additional Information

    You can follow Kaya Genç on Twittter.

    For more on Kaya Genç and his writing visit his website.

     

  • The Sounds of Istanbul

    In the latest of our literary dispatches from Turkey, Mario Levi contemplates the sounds of the city he grew up in, and the stories that lie behind them for those willing to listen

    Translated from the Turkish by Feyza Howell

    Every life has a ‘text’, and every ‘text’ a life hiding in the dark somewhere, awaiting discovery… The choice of vantage point is, in theory, your privilege, the vantage point from which to observe the city you live in, the city you want to make sense of, and rebuild in your own way. What are you after? What do you expect to hear there, from whom, and how? Are you the victim of some voluntary captivity, hoping for deliverance through writing, or a warrior in search of his own language? There are places that you will never reach since that city will always follow you; do you know what they are?

    My ‘text’ on Istanbul insisted I ask similar questions. At the top of Galata Tower where I climbed one evening, I, who have chased many a story, or who styled himself as such, heard other people’s questions. The sun was setting. A crystal clear autumn day was about to end. More houses and streets than I could count fanned out before my eyes. Numerous houses shielding their heritage and speaking of the passage of time. Old streets trying to keep up with the changes… My city reminded me of its nature once more, the city I owed my own existence to. My ears were ringing and a familiar dizziness came over me. These sounds could have been proclaiming countless stories my life would never suffice to tell. So many civilisations, cultures, languages and faiths had left their marks. But these stones and windows stay silent to those who neither know how to listen, nor feel the need to. Like so many people… But the luxury of not hearing is denied to the twenty-first century storyteller, if anything, hearing more and more is inevitable. These were familiar sounds, and more: these were sounds I would always hear. No matter how irresistible the occasional need to plug my ears, unable to stomach the things I was hearing. Not that I ever wanted to, or could: this, you see, was the only way I could exist for the sake of my ‘text’ in a city such as this one. By relating, and by trying to understand… Just like Scheherazade, just so I could survive. That’s why I trod those streets, and others too, for so many years.

    I know an array of secrets silver Istanbul’s mirrors on the reverse. How else can I possibly explain its resolve to be heard whenever I journey to other tongues?

     

    About the Author

    Born in 1957, Mario Levi graduated from the Istanbul University Faculty of Literature in 1980 with a degree in French language and literature. In addition to being a writer, Levi has worked as a French teacher, an importer, a journalist, a radio programmer, and a copywriter. He currently  lectures in Yeditepe University, and is a board member of English PEN’s sister centre, PEN Turkey. www.mariolevi.com.tr

    You can follow him on Twitter @mariolevi_

    About the Translator

    Feyza Howell works as a literary translator as well as serving English PEN as assessor and a number of public agencies as interpreter. She has been translating fiction and commercial texts for many years as well as writing copy and non-fiction, including Waste by Hakan Günday and her translation of Madame Atatürk by İpek Çalışlar is due for publication by Saqi in the autumn. 

  • Taking a stand

    Oray Egin reports on the continuing protests in Turkey, why they began in Gezi Park and what the writers of the country owe to those marching on the streets

    It was a small, insignificant park at the centre of Istanbul. For years it served as a gay cruising area at night, but during the day families with children spent time there as it was one of the last remaining green spaces. Many couples got married at the adjacent registry office. Almost all Istanbulians have memories in the park, but none of these mattered to the administration of the pro-Islamist Justice and Development Party (the AKP). Their decade-long rule of Turkey brought along a construction boom, and the Gezi Park was the latest to face a similar destiny.

    Turkey’s Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan first conceived of a construction project at the site of the park when he was the mayor of Istanbul, in the early 90s. He didn’t get enough support then, but as a powerful premier, with 50 per cent support from the electorate, he revisited his original idea. His wish was to rebuild the Ottoman era military barracks torn down by the 50s government to make way for green space. “It may be a hotel, or a residence with shops on the ground floor,” Erdoğan recently announced.

    Urban transformation projects in Turkey rarely involve public opinion, therefore the bulldozers entered the Gezi Park without much delay after Erdoğan’s statements. But that tiny park triggered a country-wide demonstration against the government when a small group, of about 20 to 30 people, stood against the bulldozers and saved a tree.

    Soon after, the word got out via Twitter and involved more people frustrated with the government’s policies – not only environmental, but an accumulation of frustration. Thousands marched to Taksim Square, where the Gezi Park is located, and similar protests erupted in dozens of other Turkish cities. Police dealt brutally with protesters using tear gas bombs and water cannons. There are numerous injuries, including a protester who lost an eye, and even a civilian casualty.

    Turkey’s media, out of fear of the government, remained silent for days. The country’s first privately owned news network, NTV, became the focus of heavy criticism. The network is part of a large conglomerate which also owns Garanti Bank, one of the largest in Turkey. On Monday, its shares dropped 9 per cent and more than 1,500 customers closed their accounts. The network’s executive issued an apology the next day: “We were wrong.”

    “It’s significant that the protest started over a tree,” says Buket Uzuner, a novelist who’s working on a quartet inspired by nature. “But of course, it is not only about a park, all of us are frustrated. And for the first time in ten years we’ve had the will to say enough.”

    Indeed, the Gezi Park protests were ignited because of the government’s increasingly authoritarian rule and threats to secular lifestyles. Just recently, a bill banning alcohol sales from 10pm until 6am was passed by the government. A symbol of the Istanbul Film Festival, the historic Emek Theatre, was torn down and is now being converted into a shopping mall. Added to this is the intimidation of free press.

    “For me one of the biggest issues is censorship and self-censorship,” adds Uzuner. “I was writing in the 70s as well, during military rule, and I can honestly say that the pressure wasn’t as severe as today.”

    Most recently, many of Turkey’s leading writers, including Uzuner, O.Z. Livaneli, Latife Tekin, Mehmet Murat Somer, Ece Temelkuran and Ayse Kulin signed a petition calling for an independent council to be formed that will hear the people’s demands and stop police brutality. “I believe that among those protesters are people who grew up reading my books,” says Uzuner. “I owe it to them to raise my voice, support them, and even march with them.”

    About the Author

    Oray Egin is a journalist and a writer based in Istanbul and New York. You can follow him on Twitter @orayinenglish

    Additional Information

    This special edition of PEN Atlas is in response to events in Turkey, and will be followed by a piece tomorrow by Mario Levi on The Sounds of Istanbul.

     

  • Turning up the volume

    Yasmine El Rashidi, contributor to the PEN-award-winning title Writing Revolution: The Voices from Tunis to Damascus, tells PEN Atlas about growing up learning English: exile and community, being alienated and finding her voice

    I am asked, frequently, what it means to be a woman in the Arab world; what it means to be a woman writing, expressing herself, making statements – often contrarian – in a context so dominantly male. I often choose not to respond, not to write those pieces people ask of me, not to feed an assumption of difficulty and struggle associated with gender. But occasionally, I succumb – offering editors and audiences a response to what, from their view, must be the most pressing question, the greatest struggle, for me as a female writer in Egypt.

    It’s not easy being a woman in the Middle East, and much less so today, in Egypt, with all the tumult and rising conservatism that has come to pass in the months – or years now – after the uprising. It’s not easy, but one finds ways to deal with the challenge, of the invasion of privacy, of space; of the objectification and the patriarchy that interferes and takes liberties on both the superficial and intimate levels of one’s life. There are challenges, but we find ways of tending to them and after a lifetime of it, waste little energy lamenting; we either carry on with our lives and put on blinders and trudge along, or, we take up the rights of women as a cause and calling. I know many women who take up this fight each day.

    The greatest challenge, and struggle, for me is a different one – it is the one of language, of voice. I made the decision years ago, as a teenager, to be a writer, and my parents had made the decision even years before that their children would go to an English school. It meant, without any choosing of my own but merely fluke – default – that I found my writing voice in a language not native to my country, and I struggle, often, almost daily, with this – with the sensation, or sense, of being muted.

    “It is the cause of significant disquiet.”

    “Feeling I’m on mute.”

    (excerpt from panel discussion – Berlin Festival of Literature, 2012)

    In ways, I am not the only one – I watch my generation of young Egyptians grapple with trying to find their form, their language. The product of a flawed and less than adequate school system that gave you either a foreign language, or a sub-par schooling in your own native language along with one or two others of your choice, we seem to be a generation whose volume is turned down, to varying degrees; a generation without a real mastery of any single language. Or that is, many of us at least – our Arabic is okay, our English is okay, our French comes in bits and pieces.

    To write in English, in particular at this moment of change and possibility, is to sever myself from community – from the people who matter, who affect change, who are building – or rebuilding – the country. To write in English, is to be exiled in the place in which you are from. To write in English is to write for the world, and to be subjected to the standards and expectations of editors, and readers, who demand something particular from writers of, and in, that language. To have written that same text in Arabic and have had it translated into English, would be to have it received with an alternative eye, with more space for “difference” – difference of style, difference of syntax. The “difference” of being “foreign”, a non-native speaker of the English language, a writer of a language perhaps more florid, more hazy, more idiosyncratic by its very nature of difference, of the so-called “other”.

    My struggle, then, is as a writer, to be aware that my audience is dominantly a global one, aware that my work has less of an impact in affecting change in my home country as it does in perhaps altering perspectives and shedding light and nuance on Egypt for readers around the world. This particular point – this reality – I agonize over. I wish, at this moment, that I were writing for my own community – locally – rather than for the world.

    My struggle, is also about freeing myself, creating time and space to write about things beyond the borders of my own country; liberating myself from the consciousness of “audience” and “expectation” and “validation” and “publication”. My struggle as an Egyptian female writer is, then, ultimately not about gender or nationality or place, but of motive – of intent – regardless of outcome.

     

    About the Author

    PhotoyasmineYasmine El Rashidi is a Cairo-based writer. She is a frequent contributor to the New York Review of Books, and a contributing editor to the Middle East arts and culture quarterly Bidoun. Her writing has also appeared and is forthcoming in publications including Frieze, The Guardian, The London Review of Books, Le Monde Diplomatique, and The Happy Hypocrite, to which she contributed a work of fiction in an edition guest-edited by Lynne Tillman. A collection of her writings on the Egyptian revolution, The Battle for Egypt, was published in 2011, and her essays feature in the anthologies Writing Revolution: The Voices from Tunis to Damascus and The New York Review Abroad: Fifty Years of International Reportage. She is currently a fellow at Princeton University’s Lewis Center for the Arts, working on a nonfiction book about Egypt, as well as a novel set in Los Angeles.

    Additional Information

    Writing Revolution is a winner of an English PEN Award 2013

    You can catch writers, editors and contributors to Writing Revolution: The Voices from Tunis to Damascus at the following events.

    Monday 27th May: Guardian Hay Festival, 2.30pm
    Tuesday 28th May: Frontline Club, 7.00pm
    Wednesday 29th May: Mosaic Rooms, 7.00pm
    Thursday 30th May: Oxford Student PEN, 5-7.00pm
    Fri 28th June: The Rich Mix, Shubbak Festival, 7.00pm